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Monday, September 23, 2019

Hyderabadi Tomato Curry with Eggs


I'm always on the lookout for good vegetarian and Indian cookbooks that may offer something new. On a recent trip to Canada, I struck gold with Vegetarian India: A Journey Through the Best of Indian Home Cooking by the goddess of Indian cooking in the West, Madhur Jaffrey. It was published in a slightly different form in Great Britain as Curry Easy Vegetarian. Although  I prefer the metric measures and weights provided in British and European cookbooks, this edition has a more extensive introduction about how and where she collected these recipes. I won't be replacing it!

I have been cooking from it since I got back, and I haven't hit a dud yet, although I always end up making adjustments, sometimes inadvertently.

Sauce without water
For example, Jaffrey never includes water in her list of ingredients, so you have to be very attentive when reading her instructions,because it may be included there. The first time I made this tomato curry, I missed seeing the added 2 1/2 cups of water, so the curry turned out to be quite thick (but delicious!).

I thought at the time that I would add some water the next time I made it. When I did, I noticed my error but decided not to add as much water as she recommends. And I made some other tweaks in the spices (more chili and turmeric) and tamarind paste.

Hyderabadi Tomato Curry with Eggs

Serves 4

This simple tomato curry could be served for any meal along with some rice. The sauce is delicious, gently spiced with a sour note from the tamarind. It may be even be better the next day, so I make up a full batch (instead of my usual half recipes) and stock the freezer for a quick meal. It goes well with eggs, but I think it would also be great with fried paneer or little meatballs.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons chickpea flour
6 tablespoons water
1 1/2 cups pureed tomatoes, passata, or crushed tomatoes (equivalent to 1 can of 400 grams)

1 1/2 to 2 1/2 cups water, depending on your tomatoes and preferences
1 teaspoon tamarind paste
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons oil
6-7 curry leaves *
2 teaspoons ginger, grated
4 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon cumin, ground
1/2 teaspoon kashmiri (red) chili powder, or hot paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

4-6 hard boiled eggs

Tarka:
2 tablespoons oil
1/4 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
3-6 hot dry chilis
2 cloves garlic, sliced into long slivers
6-7 curry leaves *

Cilantro for garnish

* Fresh curry leaves may be hard to find. You can use frozen or dried curry leaves, and otherwise just omit. 

Directions

  1. Hard boil the eggs. I prick a hole in the bottom of the eggs, then submerge them in boiling water and simmer for 9 minutes for medium to large eggs. 
  2. Heat a small frying pan over medium-high heat, then add the chickpea flour and toast it for a few minutes, stirring, until it turns a shade darker. Transfer to a medium bowl to cool. When it is cool, mix in 6 tablespoons of water until there are no lumps.
  3. Add the tomatoes, tamarind paste, salt, and 1 1/2 cups of water. Mix well and set aside.
  4. Heat the oil in a saute pan (preferably non-stick) over medium high heat. 
  5. When the oil is hot, add the curry leaves, followed by the ginger and garlic, and stir a few times.
  6. Turn the heat down to low, then add the cumin, chili powder, and turmeric, and stir a few times.
  7. Add the tomato puree mixture, and bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring constantly.
  8. Turn down the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring now and then. If you find the sauce too thick, add some more water. If you want it thicker, cook it for a bit longer.
  9. For the final seasoning (the tarka), heat the oil in a small frying pan.
  10. When it is very hot, add the mustard seeds, and when they begin to pop, add the chilis and cumin seeds.
  11. When the chilis darken, add the slivered garlic and brown slightly.
  12. Adding the curry leaves, and quickly pour the lot over the tomato sauce. Stir well.



To serve, pour the tomato sauce in a shallow serving dish. Slice the eggs in half  lay them on top of the sauce.  Dribble a bit of sauce over the eggs and garnish with shopped cilantro. Serve with rice.





Friday, May 17, 2019

Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish

It is now spring, so theoretically I should start cooking with fresh peas, artichokes, and asparagus. But before moving on to those, let me share a recipe that I have made a lot this past winter.

Parsnips are a fixture of British Christmas dinners, but in Holland they were almost unknown and referred to as a forgotten vegetable until a couple of years ago.  Prior to the introduction of the potato, they were a staple of the diet here. In fact, they were likely to be the vegetable used instead of the potato in the original hutspot, which legend says was left behind by Spanish soldiers when the dikes were broken and land flooded during the Siege of Leiden in 1574. Hutspot made with potatoes and carrots is still eaten in Leiden on 3 October to celebrate that Dutch victory.

And indeed parsnips seem to have been thoroughly forgotten. I never had it as a child, probably because my Dutch parents were unfamiliar with it, although perhaps it was also forgotten in Canada and not available then.

But it is once again to be found in Dutch supermarkets and not just at the Turkish greengrocers! So there is no excuse for not making this wonderful, unusual, and easy soup.

Parsnip Soup with Pine Nut, Currant, and Celery Leaf Relish

Adapted from: Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables, by Joshua McFadden
Serves 2 for meal or 4 for a first course
The zingy fresh relish really makes this dish. Don't omit it!

Soup:
1-2 teaspoons olive oil
500-600 grams parsnips, peeled and sliced into 1 cm coins
1 large stalk celery, sliced into 1 cm pieces (reserve the celery leaves, if possible)
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons butter
400 ml water (or enough to cover the vegetables) + some more later
salt and pepper to taste

Relish:
1/4 cup currents
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/4 cup celery leaves, chopped
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
salt and pepper to taste
1-2 teaspoons olive oil 

  1. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
  2. Add the parsnips, celery, onion, and butter, and lightly season with salt and pepper.
  3. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook slowly without browning for 10-15 minutes.
  4. Add water to cover, increase the heat, and simmer until completely tender, about 5-10 minutes.
  5. Puree the soup, adding more hot water until you have loosened it to a consistency that you like (perhaps thinner for a first course soup or thicker for a meal).
  6. Taste and adjust the seasoning. 
While the soup is cooking, make the relish.
  1. Soak the currents in the vinegar for 15 minutes or more.
  2. Lightly toast the pine nuts in a skillet until they start to turn golden.
  3. Combine all the relish ingredients except olive oil, in a bowl.
  4. Taste and adjust the flavours until bright and zingy before adding some olive oil.
Serve each portion of soup with a big spoonful of relish. If you have extra relish, serve it on the side for those who want more.